Before Italy was Italy, there was the kingdom of Naples (Neapolis, Napoli, Naples). It was often grouped with Sicily as one of the "Two Sicilies" and was fought over and ruled by both the French and the Spanish. And even after Italy became Italy, the heir to the throne of Italy was called
The Prince of Naples. Which is to say, that Naples has a rich history and has long been important, geographically and culturally, in Europe.
In the Naples of today, that may be easily forgotten as you avoid piles of dog shit on the streets (even on the steps of the Cathedral of Naples), step over the fake bags illegal immigrants try to sell, and feel uncomfortable sitting on a park bench with empty beer bottles rolling around beneath your feet.
Regardless, I love Naples. I love that they've turned the old palaces into museums, which house priceless relics and art works. But from the outside of the building, it would be difficult to guess at its history or its current function.
I love that you find the best food down the smallest allies and an entire pizza costs 3 euro.
I love that there is no order to their streets, grids didn't come into the equation when the city was built.
And as you dodge the steaming piles and the vespas and the water flung out of the fish monger's shop onto the street and you're trying to spot the palazzo/museum; you have to be careful not to turn down the wrong street and you must be sure to hold onto your bag and watch your pockets. Which is to say, that Naples today is so vibrant!
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| No real pavement... |
In fact, I may even go so far as to say, Naples and surrounds are the perfect travel destination. Note that I did not say
tourist destination, because if you're only looking for luxury and perfection, it's better to avoid Naples. But if you're a traveler and don't mind an adrenaline rush every time you cross the street (you never know if the cars will actually stop until the very last minute, even at a traffic light or pedestrian crossing) you will definitely love Naples.
If you'd like to escape the hustle and bustle for a day, you can take a ferry to the island of Capri, which is just across the Bay of Naples. Capri has been immortalised in movies and literature. These days you need a lot of money to stay there. Only Sophia Loren and Salvatore Ferragamo can afford villas there and one of the most expensive hotels in the world can be found on the island. But it doesn't cost too much to go there for the day and the ferry ride only takes about 50 minutes- you can get back to reality before dark.
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| The cliffs of Capri |
There's no shortage of ruins and excavations around Naples- Mount Vesuvius looms in the background. Apparently there are five excavation sites you can visit by train from Naples. I've only been to two: Pompeii and Herculaneum. Both were ancient Roman cities destroyed by the famous eruption of Vesuvius in 69AD. Both used to be right on the coast, as evidenced by boat houses and boats which were found, but today the sea is far away.
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| Mount Vesuvius behind Pompeii |
Pompeii was nearer to the volcano and was covered (and preserved) by lava. The excavated area is large and you could easily spend a week walking around and still not see everything.
What I found most interesting was the evidence of sexual practices during the time. Prostitution thrived, with secret messages hidden around the city giving directions to the whore house. Inside there were frescoes of different positions and preferences. Apparently you chose the one which most appealed, before you were shown to the appropriate room.
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| A phallus carved into the stones on the road, points the direction |
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| Erotic frescoes |
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| Preserved in lava: pottery and an entire corpse |
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Herculaneum was further away from the mountain, so it was covered by the hot mud which slid down toward the sea in the wake of the eruption. The mud was a better preservative medium than lava. Although the excavated area is much smaller, the ruins are in much better condition than Pompeii.
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| Excavations of Herculaneum with the modern town of Ercolano on top, Mount Vesuvius behind with traces of snow |
Even though it was a freezing cold day, I enjoyed Herculaneum much more. It could be a combination of the lack of crowds, the smaller size and the better conditions of the ruins. Also, I enjoyed it because I did it on my own and not as part of a tour group.
Ercolano is only a 20 minute train ride from the centre of Naples. Then a short walk from the train station, takes you back more than 2000 years in time!
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| A bar counter- drinks were kept in and served from the urns built into the counter. The owner often lived adjacent to his shop or bar, part of the house can be seen behind. |
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| This bar/cafe had a second level, and you can see how deep the urns were |
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| Mosaic floor in the female change room of a bath house |
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| My favourite house: a well preserved mosaic on the dining room wall |
Of course you have to eat pizza in Napoli. And you have to have pizza covered in lots of buffalo mozzarella- when you bite into it, the oil runs down your chin and arm. In Naples even the little ladies eat an entire pizza to themselves. Your pizza is not cut into neat triangles for you. You use a knife and fork and cut it for yourself, into whatever shape you like.
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| Pizza for one, bigger than the plate! |
I also had a chance to visit the old Royal Palace which overlooks the bay, and to spend a few hours in Sorrento.
Unfortunately I didn't get to see the Caravaggio paintings which I know are in the city. Many places close at 14h00; some open again at 15h30, some don't.
I also didn't get a chance to go to Amalfi and I would like to climb up Mount Vesuvius and look over the rim.
Seems like Naples is going to be added to my list of places I
have to come back to one day...
